The place looked too dark to be open, but Donna and I pulled over anyway, hoping to get a glimpse inside the unusual Seattle bar we’d heard about. We swung the front door open and were happy to find the Copper Gate was alive and well on this rainy Monday night. The bow of a small-scale wooden Viking ship that serves as the bar was our first impression. 
The cozy, low-lit booths were inviting, but we sat along the copper-topped hull of the ship to honor the local Scandinavian community. The photo-covered mast trumpeted the secondary theme of this place – vintage porn. Looking around we saw similar photos, drawings, paintings, black velvet screens, and sculptures. It wasn’t sleazy, but more of a celebration. Like the way Bucca De Beppo celebrates famous Italians. There were ample black and white photographs of respectable-looking ladies tidying up, or enjoying their garden, seemingly unaware that they’d neglected to put on a blouse.
The cozy, low-lit booths were inviting, but we sat along the copper-topped hull of the ship to honor the local Scandinavian community. The photo-covered mast trumpeted the secondary theme of this place – vintage porn. Looking around we saw similar photos, drawings, paintings, black velvet screens, and sculptures. It wasn’t sleazy, but more of a celebration. Like the way Bucca De Beppo celebrates famous Italians. There were ample black and white photographs of respectable-looking ladies tidying up, or enjoying their garden, seemingly unaware that they’d neglected to put on a blouse. Pornography seems too harsh a word for what was on display here.
Nonetheless, bartender Jeshua Madden explained that this theme was considered perfect for a Scandinavian bar. I didn’t spend too much time contemplating the connection as my eyes were focused on the freezer case, which boasted six varieities of Aquavit – not bad for a spirit that most people don’t know about – including me until a hot summer day in the 1980s when my buddy Lars Molar pulled a frosty bottle from his garage freezer. Aside from its refreshingly cold blast, I immediately fell in love with the caraway seed infused drink that tasted like rye bread. Lars muttered a Danish toast before our second, third, and consecutive shots. I don’t remember much more. Today you can find two brands of Aquavit at larger liquor stores. The simple Danish brand is most commonly stocked, followed by the Norwegian Linia variety which is slightly darker and sweeter. Until I stumbled upon this Ballard bar, my palette had only known these two. Jeshua poured me Heldig’s Own, one of the three local varieities they carry (okay, one is from Portland, but that’s a heck of a lot closer than Copenhagen). The Ballard-made spirit features coriander and an earthy aroma. Jeshua mixed Donna an Aquavit cocktail – a must try since this spirit is typically consumed straight. She enjoyed her Stor Agurk (Danish for “Big Cucumber”) which included sugar-sweetened Aquavit mixed with fresh cucumber and fennel. I tried a shot of Portland’s Krogstad, the fennel essence of which reminded me of the Italian Sambuca or Greek Ouzo. 
We couldn’t leave without trying their Swedish Meatballs – served in gravy with lingonberries along side a creamy, buttery, Potato-Celery Root mash topped with crisped pancetta. Ufdah! It was heaven on a plate. One day, we’ll return for Norwegian Constitution day (May 17), which Jeshua explained is their busiest day – with both Aquavit and Danish cheers flowing a plenty. The Copper Gate
thecoppergate.com
6301 24th Ave NW Seattle 98107
Open daily 5pm to Midnight
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